Vegetables · The Cooking Guide

Potatoes

Versatile starchy tuber vegetable that forms the base of countless dishes worldwide

Most potato disappointments, gummy mash, soggy roasties, fries that won't crisp, trace back to one decision made at the store, picking a waxy potato for a starchy job or the reverse. Match the potato to the method, store them out of the fridge, and the humblest vegetable becomes the most reliable.

I · Choosing

How to Choose

Potatoes fall on a spectrum from starchy to waxy, and where a variety sits decides what it's good for. Buying the right type for the dish is more than half the battle.

  • Starchy potatoes (russet, Idaho) are low-moisture and high-starch, they bake fluffy, mash light, and fry crisp, but fall apart if boiled for a salad.
  • Waxy potatoes (red, new, fingerling) hold their shape after cooking, ideal for boiling, potato salad, gratins, and roasting in chunks.
  • All-purpose potatoes (Yukon Gold and other yellow types) sit in the middle and are the safe default when you're not sure, good mash, decent roast, sturdy enough to boil.
  • Choose firm potatoes with tight skin and no soft spots, sprouting eyes, or wrinkling. A little dirt is fine; pre-washed potatoes spoil faster.
  • Cut away any green skin or flesh and any sprouts before cooking, the green indicates solanine, a bitter natural toxin that builds up with light exposure.

II · Preparation

Prep Before You Cook

A couple of prep steps unlock the textures potatoes are capable of, and which step you use depends entirely on what you're making.

  1. For crispy roast potatoes, parboil cut chunks in salted water until just tender, drain, then rough up the edges in the colander, the frayed, starchy surface is what crisps into craggy edges.
  2. For fries or hash, rinse or soak cut potatoes in cold water to wash off surface starch, then dry them completely; this prevents sticking and helps them crisp.
  3. For mash, choose starchy or all-purpose potatoes and start them in cold salted water so they cook evenly from the outside in.
  4. Cut pieces to a uniform size so they cook at the same rate, and salt the cooking water generously, potatoes are bland and need seasoning from the start, not just at the end.
  5. Peel or don't by preference, but peel after boiling for salads (the skins slip off and less water gets in) and leave skins on for roasting and rustic mash.

III · Pitfalls

Common Mistakes

Using the wrong type for the job

A waxy red potato will never mash fluffy, and a starchy russet will fall apart in a potato salad. Reach for starchy potatoes (russets) for baking, mashing, and fries; waxy potatoes (red, new, fingerling) for boiling, salads, and gratins; and Yukon Golds when you want a do-anything middle ground.

Storing potatoes in the fridge

Refrigeration converts potato starch into sugar, giving a sweet off-flavor and causing excessive browning, and more acrylamide, when you fry or roast them. Keep potatoes in a cool, dark, airy place instead, never the fridge and never a sunny windowsill.

Overworking the mash

Beating or food-processing cooked potatoes ruptures their starch cells and releases a flood of starch, turning the mash into glue. Mash gently by hand or pass them through a ricer, and fold in warm dairy rather than whipping it.

Skipping the parboil for roast potatoes

Potatoes thrown straight into the oven raw come out leathery and pale. Parboiling first cooks the inside fluffy and lets you rough up the surface, so the edges shatter-crisp in the oven while the centers stay soft. It's the single biggest upgrade to a roast potato.

Under-salting the water

Potatoes are starchy and naturally bland, and salt added only at the end sits on the surface. Salt the cooking water well so the seasoning penetrates as they cook, this is why restaurant potatoes taste seasoned all the way through.

IV · Pairings

What to Serve With It

Sides

  • Practically any roast meat or fish, potatoes are the universal side
  • A fried or poached egg over hash or rösti
  • Sour cream, chives, and bacon on a baked potato
  • A sharp salad to balance a rich gratin
  • Sautéed greens or roasted vegetables alongside

Sauces & Marinades

  • Gravy or pan jus for mash and roasties
  • Garlic aioli or malt vinegar for fries
  • Brown butter and herbs over boiled new potatoes
  • Cheese sauce for a gratin or loaded fries
  • Salsa verde or chimichurri over crispy potatoes

Drinks

  • Whatever pairs with the main, potatoes are the supporting act
  • A crisp lager or pale ale with fries
  • Sparkling water with lemon

V · Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between waxy and starchy potatoes?

It comes down to starch and moisture. Starchy potatoes like russets are dry and high in starch, so they cook up fluffy and crisp, great for baking, mashing, and frying, but they crumble when boiled. Waxy potatoes like reds and fingerlings are moist and low in starch, so they hold their shape, ideal for boiling, salads, and gratins. Yukon Golds sit in between.

Why shouldn't I store potatoes in the fridge?

Cold temperatures convert the potato's starch into sugar. That makes them taste unpleasantly sweet, and the extra sugar causes them to brown too quickly and produce more acrylamide when fried or roasted at high heat. Store potatoes in a cool, dark, ventilated spot around 45–55°F instead.

Are green potatoes safe to eat?

The green itself is harmless chlorophyll, but it signals a buildup of solanine, a bitter natural toxin that forms with light exposure. Cut away any green skin and flesh and remove sprouts before cooking. If a potato is extensively green, very soft, or tastes bitter, throw it out.

How do I get really crispy roast potatoes?

Parboil cut chunks of starchy potato in well-salted water until just tender, drain them, and shake them in the colander to rough up the edges. Roast them in plenty of hot fat in a hot oven, turning once. The fluffy interior and frayed, starchy surface are what crisp into craggy, golden edges.

Should I soak potatoes before frying?

For fries and hash, yes. Soaking or rinsing cut raw potatoes rinses surface starch away, which keeps them from sticking together and helps them crisp. Dry them thoroughly afterward, any water left on the surface will make hot oil spit and steam the potatoes instead of frying them.

Storage & food safety
Refrigerator
Do not refrigerate raw potatoes. Cold turns their starch to sugar, which makes them taste oddly sweet and brown too fast (and form more acrylamide) when fried or roasted.
Freezer
Raw potatoes freeze badly and turn watery and grainy. Freeze only cooked potato dishes, mashed, twice-baked, or blanched fries, which hold up well at 0°F (−18°C) for a few months.
Thawing
Cook frozen blanched fries or potato dishes straight from frozen for the best texture; thawing first makes them soggy. Mashed potatoes can be thawed in the fridge and gently reheated with a splash of milk or butter.

Keep raw potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot around 45–55°F (7–13°C), in paper or a basket, not a sealed bag. Store them away from onions, which speed each other's spoilage. Cooked potatoes keep 3 to 4 days refrigerated.

Continue reading: the full guide

One spectrum explains almost everything

Potatoes seem interchangeable, a pile of brown lumps in a bin, but they’re not, and almost every potato dish that goes wrong goes wrong because the cook grabbed the wrong type. The key is a single spectrum running from starchy to waxy, and where a variety falls on it determines what it can do.

Starchy potatoes, russets and Idaho bakers, are low in moisture and high in starch. When they cook, those starch granules swell and separate, giving a light, fluffy, dry interior. That’s exactly what you want for a baked potato, for fluffy mash, and for fries with a crisp shell, but it’s why a russet disintegrates into mush if you try to boil it for a salad. Waxy potatoes, red potatoes, new potatoes, and fingerlings, are the opposite: high moisture, low starch, with more of a sticky, fine-grained starch that holds the cells together. They keep their shape through boiling, so they’re the right choice for potato salad, for gratins, and for roasting in chunks that need to stay intact. All-purpose potatoes, the yellow Yukon Gold being the famous one, sit in the middle and are the sensible default when a recipe doesn’t specify: good mash, respectable roast, sturdy enough to boil.

Internalize that one distinction, starchy for fluffy-and-crisp, waxy for holds-its-shape, all-purpose when unsure, and most potato problems simply stop happening.

Storage, and the fridge trap

Potatoes want a cool, dark, ventilated spot, somewhere around 45–55°F (7–13°C), in paper or an open basket rather than a sealed plastic bag that traps moisture. What they don’t want is the refrigerator. It’s a surprisingly common mistake with a real consequence: cold temperatures convert the potato’s starch into sugar. That makes raw potatoes taste oddly sweet, and worse, the extra sugar causes them to brown too fast and produce more acrylamide (an undesirable compound formed when starchy foods are cooked hot) when you fry or roast them. Keep them out of the fridge and away from onions, which give off gases that hasten each other’s sprouting and spoilage.

While you’re at it, watch for green skin and sprouts. The green is just chlorophyll from light exposure, harmless in itself, but it flags a buildup of solanine, a bitter, mildly toxic compound the potato makes to defend itself. Trim away green areas and sprouts before cooking; toss any potato that’s extensively green, badly shriveled, or tastes bitter.

Technique unlocks texture

The same potato can be three different foods depending on how you handle it, and a few specific moves are what separate a good result from a great one. For crispy roast potatoes, the trick is to parboil cut chunks in well-salted water until just tender, then rough up their edges in the colander before roasting; that frayed, starch-coated surface is what crisps into the craggy, shattering edges everyone fights over. For fries and hash, do the reverse and rinse or soak the cut potatoes to wash off surface starch so they don’t glue together, then dry them completely so they crisp instead of steam. For mash, choose a starchy potato, start it in cold salted water, and handle it gently, rice it or mash by hand rather than whipping, because aggressive mixing ruptures the starch cells and turns the whole bowl gluey.

And in every case, salt the water. Potatoes are bland and starchy, and salt added only at the end just sits on the outside. Seasoning the cooking water lets the salt penetrate as they cook, which is the quiet reason restaurant potatoes taste seasoned all the way through. The per-method guides below cover roasting, baking, boiling, steaming, and air-frying in detail.

Sources & further reading